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Chitvan Jungle Lodge, Kanha National ParkChitvan Jungle Lodge, Kanha National Park
 
Sharad's Diary    

Restricting Wildlife Tourism Our Prime Minister has written to the state Chief Ministers to regulate and restrict, as they feel that tourism has become a threat to wildlife. I frankly share their anguish because lots of people in our fraternity are simply here to make quick money at whatever cost. Today there are more websites on internet selling Tiger tours then the actual Tigers in the Wild.

When one sees the Jeeps running in the parks after hearing news of a Tiger sighting at some distance, and clouds of dust following them, one really wonders, that to see just one Tiger, how much are we not seeing in that rush. Undoubtedly Tiger is the mainstay of our national parks. But when will one learn to appreciate every speck of wonder around in the national parks?

I fully endorse the concerns of the forest department. It is time that the tourism in the area learns how to respect nature. It is time when the Lodge owners take initiative in guiding their guests that is best for the park.

Through this note I would request all our esteemed guests in Kanha not to pressurize the drivers and park guides to show them the Tiger at any cost. Kanha is one of the richest national park as far as bio-diversity is concerned. Enjoy every atom of it, ask questions on everything you see, whether it is shrubs, trees, any interesting birds etc. Tiger is a part of the Jungle which will surely show up at some stage of your safaris in the park. Have patience, respect and enjoy Kanha.

Tourism is but a small tool which can be used for conservation provided we all collectively are willing to be persistent in ensuring that Tiger and nature are not disturbed due to our presence.

In this year of the Tigers, let us pledge that we will bring in a change in ourselves to make certain that Tigers is seen by our future generations as well.

With Warm Regards
Sharad Vats

A Dawn in Kanha
No matter how dark the night, somehow the sun rises once again, and shadows are chased away.

Today was an unusual morning. It was 1st January 2010. I entered the Mukki gate. Few moments inside the park, and my mind had a bizarre reflection. We celebrate New Year, make new resolutions to improve ourselves, I wondered, don't these inhabitants of the forest do the same, that too, daily?

Every sunup in Kanha, a deer awakens knowing it has to outrun the fastest predator, or be hunted to death. Also, at every crack of dawn in Kanha, when the sun rises, a predator awakens knowing it has to outrun the slowest prey, or be starved to death. Daily goals, daily performance, leading to perfection. Aren't these 4 legged souls more disciplined and superior than Humans? Isn't every morning a New Year morning for these denizens (as I dislike to dub them as animals) of the jungle. This contemplation made me believe more in my work of being a wonderer in these forests.

Few dozen tourists had entered the park, some enduring the chilly weather, some thinking if they were possibly better in their beds, some craving for a hot cuppa, but none of them devoid of enthusiasm to a degree that almost 80% of them hoped to be the first tourist to see the Tiger in first 100 metres of the drive, and another 10% in 200metres. I guess only 10% would have the patience and enthusiasm to last the whole safari, and only 5% perhaps who would come out of the park not being disappointed if they did not sight one.

Some 4 kms of a lovely wooded drive, we arrived at a Suar-kachhar lake, a herd of hard ground Barasinghas were on breakfast. We stopped; I let the whole lot of Jeeps pass. Some asked if we were seeing the Tiger, on hearing a denial, they just could not fathom that we can halt for anything else as well. I wondered when we will embark on discovering splendor in every speck and atom in nature, which is scattered all around us.

My mind, my lens, my attention, turned back to the grazing Barasinghas. I knew that the show was about to begin any moment. And, then commenced, what I had come today in the park for, a mesmerizing sun rise. The thrill of being in the Jungle at sunrise cannot be expressed in words. The tall grass (sacrum spontaneum, also known as wild sugarcane), was rising from the earth, as if to offer the few dew drops, atop it, to the Sun. And then the color of the dew drops changed to light orange, and it seemed they were also smiling and welcoming the Sun.

I dropped my camera in the Jeep, and wanted to capture the whole frame for eternity in my mind. After all, few things cannot be captured by a camera. The camera has only one sense of sight, while we have 5 to experience. A beautiful sequence followed, two male stags of Bara singhas locked horns to appease a female. The lesser one had to go, and then the dominating male, walked towards the female, and both of them went into the sunrise, as if two lovers walking arm in arm, they disappeared in the tall grass.

Sharad Vats

Tiger safari in Kanha on December 23rd 2009

The chilly winters of Kanha demotivates most of the robust hearts to not to leave the comforts of a quilt at Chitvan and move out for the morning safari. The priceless sensation of holding the hot cup of tea was bringing back the lack of consciousness in one's hands. Sun god had still not blessed us by his presence when we boarded the Jeep at the Lodge.

Waiting at the Mukki gate one gets to wonder if it is sane to be out so early. But that feeling gets overpowered by the mighty anxiety about what is in store for us in today's safari. Our Jeep entered the Mukki gate at 7:00 o'clock sharp. Today, with me was Peter from UK. His expectation was clear, to photograph a Tiger walking on the road in front of him. After doing innumerable safaris in various Tiger reserves of India, he was still bereft of the blissful occurrence of a Tiger sighting.

Our experienced driver Babloo Bhai-jan was expertly driving with his eyes on the dirt track in front in search of any pug marks or signs of the predator movement, his ears raptly focused on listening for any alarm calls, his hands energetically maneuverings the vehicle with minimum fuss. I asked him to turn towards Saundhar Tank. Just short of reaching there, one Jeep coming from the opposite direction exhilaratingly told us of spotting a Tigress sometime back. I noticed a drop in spur on Peter's face, but, Babloo Bhai-jan and I, did not relinquish our hope and reached the spot where we expected her to make an appearance. And, lo and behold, the princess of the Kingdom was at hand. She came out from the bushes and crossed towards Mahavir road. I looked again at Peter, who looked mesmerized, a stunning contrast to the emotion witnessed 2 minutes back.

We knew there was more in store for us in the next few minutes. Babloo very deftly, and without much ado, parked our Jeep on the bridge. We anticipated the Tigress to come out on the dry river bed. When a predator like a Tiger moves, the prey sets off alerts in a high pitch call, which are called "alarm calls". These are infact distress calls of the unsuspecting prey and they alert rest of their brothers in the neighborhood.

Listening to these calls 4 more Jeeps gathered and lined up besides us. Monkeys were calling about 30 metres off, and my prudence judged that this was getting close by the second, and any moment we will spot the Tigress again. The sheer intelligence of this magnificent creature has befooled all Tiger experts in the past, and I consider myself only a rookie. There was silence for 10 minutes, the Tigress had conceivably sensed our presence and had sat down. Suddenly the calls started with greater intensity and frequency. Only thing one heard was monkeys calling, and our hearts pounding, while the 2000 sq km jungle was silent, everything, was, pin drop silent. Abruptly, we heard the rustling of dry leaves, and something moving towards us from the bush. And like a bolt from the blue, the Tigress materialized. The radiating face, the intense look in the eye, a no nonsensical look, telling us, "I have come out because you behaved and kept silent, and now, you stay put and watch me go, dare not follow me". The monkeys had stopped calling, as she was out in the open, no danger to them, only thing we heard now was cameras clicking, the paparazzi was here to shoot the celebrity of the kingdom.

Sharad Vats


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